Trim

The bread has to be excellent (as do all the ingredients, really), and it needs to hold up under the filling. There has to be just enough filling to keep every bite balanced, with contrasting textures and a sauce that brings everything together, while still giving the meat, cheese, vegetables or whatever else is inside room to shine individually. His Majesty the Sandwich can be a forgettable bite on the go or a food experience that stays with you.

This deceptively simple challenge is now in the hands of Matija Bogdan, Marko Palfi and Mate Janković, who opened TriM at Vlaška 17 in early October. These three prominent chefs are familiar faces on Croatia’s food scene (and, in Matija’s case, internationally), but they are also known for pursuits beyond the kitchen, from Marko’s and Mate’s television appearances to Matija’s recent ascent of Mount Everest (!).

As often happens, after exploring a range of more conventional restaurant concepts over the course of their careers, great chefs come full circle, returning to the delicious, comforting food they grew up with and truly love. Whether that is the case here or this is simply a good business idea, we cannot say. What we do know is that we are happy about it!

For their new venture, the three Ms have turned to something that calls for very little ceremony: a sandwich you eat with your hands. They have certainly taken it seriously, though. We remember first reading about the plans for Trim on Facebook, where one commenter expressed disappointment at the direction Croatian gastronomy was taking when chefs of this caliber were making “ordinary” sandwiches. One of the chefs responded with a lengthy reply detailing the exact process of preparing one of their sandwiches. Suffice it to say, it sounded like something out of a French restaurant kitchen.

The space is small, with 12 seats at high tables, while outside on lovely European Square, the sandwich shop has a terrace that seats another 20 or so. Since they do not take reservations, the scramble for a seat is real.

What’s on the menu?

The menu is short, with regular changes and possible additions planned, we are told. Five sandwiches and two sides, featuring combinations that sound delicious. The options range from ground meat with Middle Eastern spices and marinated beef tenderloin with beef jus and cheddar to panko-crusted chicken with a mayonnaise flavored with miso, mustard and pesto, fennel and Pag cheese, as well as oyster mushrooms with spicy vegetables and smoked cheese. The bread comes from Bread Club, while the ingredients also include Kolan cheese from the renowned Gligora dairy.

To go with your sandwich, you can order fries or baked spaetzle. The drinks selection is modest but has been given more attention than is usual for a place like this. The list includes two wines from Međimurje winemakers in Bogdan and Palfi’s neck of the woods, a Dalmatian red, locally made sodas, coffee and kombucha, as well as pelinkovac, a Croatian wormwood liqueur, and two simple cocktails.

What did our chefs try?

We started with Pig Deal, a sandwich filled with pork neck, smoked cheese and oyster mushrooms. The soft ciabatta held the rich, slippery filling well, and the meat had a deep, full flavor that paired beautifully with the smoked cheese. The oyster mushrooms added extra meatiness and texture, while the sandwich as a whole was a pleasure to eat without feeling heavy.

Next, we could not resist the recommended bestseller, Smazalica, served in a soft lepinja flatbread generously soaked in juices. The ground meat, seasoned with Middle Eastern spices, had a deep, full flavor and a pleasant kick from harissa. A sesame emulsion adds creaminess and nutty notes, while marinated vegetables bring freshness and feta delivers bold little bursts of saltiness.

Of course, we ordered both the fries and the spaetzle. The fries were excellent, well seasoned and still crisp even after cooling down a little. The spaetzle delighted us with their crisp, browned edges and soft interior, made creamy by plenty of rich cheese.

We paired the meal with an excellent sparkling wine from Međimurje, whose fresh bubbles boldly held their own against every rich, luscious bite.