Zagreb’s go-to lunch: Recipes for meat patties and Savoy cabbage stew

This is a true Zagreb gablec, the midday meal enjoyed during a break from work – hearty, warm, affordable and good enough to make the whole city pause for a moment.

When I think of Zagreb, it often comes to life through its sounds. A tram passing along Ilica, morning conversations outside bakeries, hurried footsteps on the sidewalks, the clink of cups in neighborhood cafés and that brief question heard in almost every office around noon: “Where shall we go for lunch?”

Gablec is more than an ordinary lunch. It is a small daily ritual and one of the few moments in the working day when people actually sit down together. For half an hour, meetings, phone calls and responsibilities are put on hold. Coworkers talk about work, soccer, the weather and their weekend plans. In front of them is a plate of food that needs to be simple, yet hearty enough to see them through the rest of the day.

In this episode, I decided to prepare meat patties and Savoy cabbage stew – a combination that may not sound spectacular, but that is precisely what makes it such a good reflection of everyday cooking in Zagreb. This is food that feels no need to chase every trend. It relies on tried-and-true ingredients, familiar aromas and flavors many of us grew up with around the family table.

Meat patties are one of those dishes that every household makes a little differently. Some add more onion, some use a mixture of meats, some coat them in flour and others fry them in lard. For me, what matters most is that they stay tender inside and are well seasoned. Soaked bread keeps them moist, onion adds sweetness and a little garlic and parsley give them that familiar homemade flavor.

Savoy cabbage stew, meanwhile, is a perfect example of how a few humble ingredients can become a meal that fills the whole kitchen with warmth. Savoy cabbage, potatoes, carrots, onion and a little seasoning are all you need for a thick, fragrant stew best enjoyed slowly, with good conversation and a piece of bread.

Meat patties recipe

Ingredients for four servings:

• 600 g ground beef
• 1 large onion
• 2 cloves garlic
• 2 slices stale bread
• 100 ml milk or water
• 1 egg
• 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
• Salt and pepper
• A little flour for shaping, optional
• Oil or lard for frying

1. Tear the bread into small pieces and pour the milk or water over it. Leave it to soften for a few minutes, then squeeze out the excess liquid thoroughly. Finely chop the onion and crush the garlic.
2. In a large bowl, combine the ground beef, squeezed bread, onion, garlic, egg, parsley, salt and pepper. Work the mixture thoroughly with your hands for a few minutes. I would not skip this step: it helps bind the ingredients together so the patties hold their shape as they cook.
3. Leave the mixture in the refrigerator for at least 20 minutes. Then shape it into round or oval patties. If you like, you can coat them very lightly in flour, but this is optional.
4. Heat the oil or lard in a pan. Fry the patties over medium-high heat for about four to five minutes on each side, depending on their thickness. They are ready when they have a golden-brown crust and are cooked all the way through.

Savoy cabbage stew recipe

Ingredients:

• 1 head Savoy cabbage
• 500 g potatoes
• 2 carrots
• 1 large onion
• 2 cloves garlic
• 1 teaspoon paprika
• 2 liters water or vegetable stock
• Salt and pepper
• 2 tablespoons oil or lard

1. Trim and wash the cabbage, then cut it into thin strips. Peel and dice the potatoes and slice the carrots into rounds. Start by sautéing the finely chopped onion in the oil or lard. Once it has softened, add the garlic and paprika and stir briefly.
2. Pour in the water or stock and add the potatoes and carrots. Cook for approximately 15 minutes, or until the potatoes begin to soften. Add the cabbage and cook for another 10–15 minutes.
3. Season the stew with salt and pepper. If you prefer a thicker texture, mash some of the cooked potatoes with a fork and return them to the pot. This will thicken the stew without adding flour or cream.

DID YOU KNOW?

The story of Zagreb’s markets began long before Dolac. According to Tržnice Zagreb (Zagreb Markets), Gradec was granted the right to hold fairs and operate a market as early as 1242. After Gradec and Kaptol were united in 1850, Zagreb’s first market was located in front of the cathedral. In the late 19th century, it moved to what was then Jelačić Square. Dolac opened in 1930 and has since become one of the most important hubs of everyday life in the city.

For me, meat patties and Savoy cabbage stew are therefore more than just a recipe. They capture everyday Zagreb – its trams, working days, markets and warm plates of food. This is a city that moves quickly, yet still appreciates the value of sitting down, enjoying a home-cooked meal and talking without watching the clock.