MEET THE LOCALS

For MEET THE LOCALS, we spoke with renowned chefs and sommeliers from Zagreb’s culinary scene, asking what drew them into this world, which memories and flavors connect them to the city and where they would take someone discovering Zagreb for the first time. Their answers lead from Dolac and neighborhood markets to restaurants, bars and places they keep coming back to – together creating a deeply personal map of Zagreb through food, wine and everyday rituals.

MARIO MIHELJ, chef

When did you realize that your interest in the world of hospitality, wine or gastronomy went beyond just a job?

From the moment I started cooking, I knew it was what I wanted to do. I was drawn to that whole world – the flavors, the food, the cooking, creating something new and everything that comes with that way of life. I never saw it as just a job, but as something I wanted to devote myself to completely.

Is there a flavor, smell or ingredient that you particularly associate with Zagreb?

Homemade beef soup and breaded fried chicken. I was born in Zagreb, and those are the flavors I grew up with. My grandmother made them best. That is why, even today, I associate them far more with home and Zagreb than with any restaurant or particular place.

If you were putting together a short food itinerary for someone visiting Zagreb for the first time, which places would you recommend?

I would start with breakfast at Broom, then show them a few different sides of Zagreb’s food scene throughout the day. Sol for Croatian tapas, Ficlek for a traditional tavern experience, followed by Vinodol, Skenderica and Stari fijaker. I think that combination of places is a great way to get to know Zagreb through its food.

Do you have a favorite Zagreb ritual – coffee, a trip to the market, a glass of wine, lunch, a walk or a place you always return to?

I love mornings most, especially in spring and summer, when the city is just waking up. Dolac, people arriving at the market, that first coffee and the city slowly coming to life – that is Zagreb at its best for me. I love Zagreb’s markets, especially Trešnjevka, Kvatrić and Dolac, and I visit them often. Coffee at Palainovka is a must, as is Amfora at Dolac on Fridays. Over time, these places and habits have naturally become part of my life in Zagreb.

KRISTIJAN HARJAČ, sommelier at Noel

When did you realize that your interest in the world of hospitality, wine or gastronomy went beyond just a job?

Something just clicked during my very first internship in high school. Working with guests came naturally to me and, instead of simply doing what was expected, I always wanted to know and learn more. That later led me to become a sommelier, and each new step drew me deeper into that world. Few professions offer what hospitality gives you every day – a guest’s immediate reaction and the satisfaction you can see right away. These days, I find it hard to imagine doing anything else.

Is there a flavor, smell or ingredient that you particularly associate with Zagreb?

The smell of smoke from a grill, without a doubt. In my family, grilling was an almost sacred weekend ritual – we would fire up the grill in the middle of winter, in the rain, whatever the weather. Even now, that smell takes me straight back to those gatherings. Above all, it is the smell of good company, good people and that feeling of everyone spontaneously gathering around the table.

If you were putting together a short food itinerary for someone visiting Zagreb for the first time, which places would you recommend?

I would start the day with breakfast on the Esplanade Hotel’s Oleander Terrace, then stop for coffee at Quahwa after a walk through the city center. For lunch, I would choose the terrace at Dubravkin put, close to the center yet completely removed from the city’s bustle. I would save the evening for Noel, followed by cocktails at Urania or Peaches & Cream. That combination lets you discover quite a few different sides of Zagreb today.

Do you have a favorite Zagreb ritual – coffee, a trip to the market, a glass of wine, lunch, a walk or a place you always return to?

Since I work a lot and am often away from home, that is where I most like to spend my free time, cooking whatever I feel like. The ritual usually starts with a visit to Vivat or Miva wine shop for a good bottle of wine, followed by a trip to Dolac or Utrine Market, which is closer to home, for ingredients. I enjoy that part of the preparation almost as much as the cooking itself.

KATARINA VRENC, chef

When did you realize that your interest in the world of hospitality, wine or gastronomy went beyond just a job?

Long before I decided to pursue a professional culinary career, it was already a world in which I felt at home. I grew up in a family where food, wine and the pleasure of sharing a meal were always an important part of life. We produced almost everything ourselves, there was always something cooking and a great deal of work and discipline went into it all. As I grew older, food also became the main reason for almost every trip I took, so that love eventually led me quite naturally into professional cooking.

Is there a flavor, smell or ingredient that you particularly associate with Zagreb?

The smell of fresh cheese at the stalls of the kumice, the women vendors at Dolac. Every time I go to the market, that is the smell that stays with me the most. For me, the few women who still sell their homemade cheese, eggs and milk are the true heart of Zagreb’s market and part of what makes the city special.

If you were putting together a short food itinerary for someone visiting Zagreb for the first time, which places would you recommend?

I would always recommend the Esplanade Hotel and its legendary štrukli (soft dough filled with fresh cheese), and Tač for a more authentic taste of traditional cuisine. For cocktails, I would choose Peaches & Cream, while Charlie is the place for a morning coffee, a slice of cake or an evening glass of wine. Charlie Artisan Bakery is definitely worth a visit for bread or a croissant, and I would also recommend Mano2 for a special dining experience.

Do you have a favorite Zagreb ritual – coffee, a trip to the market, a glass of wine, lunch, a walk or a place you always return to?

I go to either Dolac or Trešnjevka Market, depending on whether I am setting out from home or work. I usually have coffee at Charlie, and when I go out for lunch, I like to choose Tač, Boban, Bota Šare or Ponistra. Still, I have to admit that I rarely eat out – I usually cook at home.

TIBOR VALINČIĆ, chef

When did you realize that your interest in the world of hospitality, wine or gastronomy went beyond just a job?

When I took my first major professional steps at Boškinac, I had my first real opportunity to see what it means to devote yourself fully to a restaurant – the food, the service, the wine and all the details that come together to create the guest experience. The deeper I became involved in that world, the more interesting I found it. It is a very demanding and often exhausting job, but the satisfaction, the people and the experiences it brings are hard to find in anything else.

Is there a flavor, smell or ingredient that you particularly associate with Zagreb?

Over the past four and a half years working at Dubravkin put, I have encountered many ingredients and flavors that I associate with Zagreb. It is hard to single out just one because the list would quickly grow to ten or so. Every year, we offer at least one menu inspired by Zagreb, and we keep discovering how much more there is to explore, reinterpret and present in a new way.

If you were putting together a short food itinerary for someone visiting Zagreb for the first time, which places would you recommend?

For someone who is serious about food, I would definitely recommend Mano2. If they want something more traditional, there is Okrugljak or Baltazar, while Ficlek is a good choice for anyone looking to experience some of the spirit of old Zagreb. You can always get a good cocktail at Landsky. These are very different places, but together they offer a good cross section of the city and its food scene.

Do you have a favorite Zagreb ritual – coffee, a trip to the market, a glass of wine, lunch, a walk or a place you always return to?

One of my Zagreb rituals is a morning walk through Trešnjevka Market, especially when we are changing the menu. I like to see what is in season, what looks good and what new ingredients have appeared on the stalls. That direct contact with ingredients is often the best way to discover what the season has to offer.

TONI BOROVINA, sommelier at Mano2

When did you realize that your interest in the world of hospitality, wine or gastronomy went beyond just a job?

I come from Korčula, a small tourist town where interacting with people is part of everyday life, so from an early age I was drawn to meeting new people and discovering different cultures and stories. I soon realized that working with people energized me rather than drained me. Alongside that came wine, spirits and cocktails, and the need to learn for work grew into a real passion. When the people and that world of flavors and drinks came together, I knew I had found what I wanted to do for the long term.

Is there a flavor, smell or ingredient that you particularly associate with Zagreb?

Interestingly, food in Zagreb often takes me back to Korčula. For years, I bought fish and langoustines at Utrine Market, and the smell of fresh fish and the sea is one of the strongest triggers for my memories. As a child, I spent hours by the sea catching fish and octopuses and gathering sea urchins, so those flavors have always meant much more to me than just food. It was at a market in Zagreb that I found that little connection to my hometown.

If you were putting together a short food itinerary for someone visiting Zagreb for the first time, which places would you recommend?

I would start with coffee at Quahwa and, once it reopens, definitely at Express Bar too. Zagreb has a very good bar scene, so for cocktails I would choose Koi, Urania or Cocorico. For food, I would show them a few completely different sides of the city: Izakaya or Kiyomi for Asian cuisine, Theatrium when the focus is on the full dining experience and Noel Street Food for a more relaxed evening. If the outing stretched into Sunday lunch, I could easily end up at Bota Šare for some fish and a little taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Zagreb.

Do you have a favorite Zagreb ritual – coffee, a trip to the market, a glass of wine, lunch, a walk or a place you always return to?

For a long time, Express Bar was my first choice for morning coffee, and these days I always enjoy returning to Quahwa. Still, I increasingly enjoy a simple coffee at a neighborhood café too. Utrine Market holds a special place for me, as I often went there for fish, langoustines and seasonal vegetables. I love places like that because, over time, they become more than somewhere to shop – they become part of everyday life.