Gallo
This already iconic establishment has always attracted business guests, diplomats, foreign statesmen and citizens of Zagreb, as well as numerous tourists looking for a quieter restaurant away from the bustle of the city, but only a few minutes’ walk from the Ban Jelačić Square.
Zagreb's rooster hails its new morning
Gallo has made its home in the courtyard of the Castellum complex in Hebrangova Street for more than two decades, a restaurant that has built itself over the years into one of Zagreb's major hotspots for Mediterranean cuisine. This already iconic establishment has always attracted business guests, diplomats, foreign statesmen and citizens of Zagreb, as well as numerous tourists looking for a quieter restaurant away from the bustle of the city, but only a few minutes’ walk from the Ban Jelačić Square. Late last year, Gallo entered a new era. The restaurant was taken over by a family of restauranteurs from the island of Hvar, who run a very successful restaurant there.
The new management has wisely chosen not to make any major overhauls or erase what Gallo has represented for the past twenty years or so. They simply opted for a more modern approach to Mediterranean cuisine, seasonality and working with quality produce and advanced techniques, with a refreshed rhythm. Young, yet seasoned chef Siniša Jevrosimov has the last word in the kitchen, having worked at some internationally recognized restaurants, and this influence is very much felt in the technique and approach.
In addition to all the delicious and beautiful plates, one of the foremost values of Gallo is the magic conjured by an experienced service team. A team of Zagreb restaurant scene veterans, led by waiter and shift manager Branko Dobrić, builds an atmosphere reminiscent of the time when the service was without exception as important as the food. Without any intrusiveness, with confidence, warmth, natural rhythm and professionalism, and a knack for understanding the guest and the right moment.
The ambience of Gallo, on the other hand, remains true to its greatest strength. A hidden terrace in a city center courtyard and a classically decorated cozy space, full of original naive paintings and beautiful wooden furniture, still provides a rare pocket of calm in the strict center of Zagreb.
What’s on the menu?
Even after the changes, the menu relies on the Mediterranean cuisine, with a strong emphasis on seasonality and daily fresh produce. At the heart of the offer are Adriatic fish and seafood, handmade pasta and vegetables that follow the rhythm of the seasons. The philosophy of the kitchen, we learned in a conversation with the chef, will gradually become more pronounced, but not at the expense of loyal guests and what Gallo has represented for years.
In addition to seafood appetizers such as octopus salad, roasted scallops or monkfish carpaccio, there are selected meat specialties, such as steak tartare. There are also several classic soups like beef or fish, as well as a few seasonal ones, such as tomato or mushroom. Then there's a range of homemade pastas that include the ever-popular truffle fuži or tagliatelle with scampi. The seafood staples are the gregada stew, buzara style fish, octopus and filleted or whole grilled fish, while meat offerings include the rooster with mlinci pasta or steak with gratinated potatoes and asparagus. The dessert menu is a beautiful list of classic mouth-watering favorites, such as semifreddo, tiramisu or panna cotta.
The wine list and a nice visible wine cellar remain one of the restaurant's most important assets. The emphasis is on Croatian labels, especially the wines of the Adriatic Croatia, with an international selection that allows for good pairing with fish and meat dishes.
What did our chefs try?
After the aperitif - Plešivica sparkling wine - we started off with a salad consisting of shrimps, strawberries, zucchini and tomatoes, as suggested by the chef. The sweetness of the shrimps went hand in hand with the freshness of the zucchini, and the excellent pairing of the tomatoes and strawberries that the chef brought to our attention was a revelation.
There was no way we could shun the handmade pasta - delicious agnolotti with taleggio and saffron. The taleggio gave the dish a bit of a ‘funk’, fullness and creaminess, and saffron rounded it off with its recognizable seductive aroma. Pasta cooked to a tee, flavors defined and balanced, simply wonderful!
The star of the lunch was a delightful ossobuco, served with mashed potatoes and mushrooms. The meat was soft as clouds, immersed in a rich sauce, with a piece of marrow in the bone that gave the dish additional smoothness and delicacy. The mashed potatoes were another highlight, evoking the great Joël Robuchon – smooth, rich and silky.
In the end, we treated ourselves to a fantastic reconstructed apple pie. All of the familiar flavors of apples, butter and spices were presented in an updated form, with several different textures, topped off with delicious poppy ice cream.
